Highland varieties enjoy cooler temperatures, and naturally grow at high elevations. It is important to prune your plants correctly, to ensure a good size plant, and vigorous uniform growth. With some Nepenthes, pruning is the first step in propagation of new plants. Following is a brief list of some of the highland types. I underlined those I do own, which isn't many. The need for lower temperatures limits me to growing them indoors.  

* denotes Picture available at the CP Database, do a search on Nepenthes & the species.

alata  * anamensis bongso boschiana  *
burbidgeae burkei carunculata clipeata
deaniana densiflora dentata distillatoria
dubia edwardiana ephippiata fusca
geoffrayi gracillima gymnamphora hamata
hirsuta inermis klossii khasiana
leptochila lowii macfarlanei madagascariensis
maxima mollis muluensis paniculata
pectinata pervillei pilosa rajah
rhombicaulis sanguinea singalana spathulata
spectabilis stenophylla tentaculata tobaica
treubiana veitchii ventricosa vieillardii
villosa

Growing Media:

No matter what media you use, make sure it is well-drained.  These plants hate to be standing in water too long.  I use a mixture of peat moss, perlite, and orchid bark.  Again, I top dress the soil with Sphagnum Moss. 

Temperatures:

Textbooks claim to grow highlands in temps ranging 50-70F.  For me, that forces them to stay indoors in the terrariums.  My Nepenthes madagascariensis (which I believe that's what it is) seems fine at 80F! It used to be at 75, but since I got new lights, I swear it is doing better.  Maybe it's not that one...Here is a picture of it:
nepmag.jpg (18302 bytes)

Water & Humidity:

Lowlands and Highlands both like high humidity, and watering should be done when the soil starts to look dry on the top.  

Light:

Full sun is recommended for Nepenthes according to many text.  For indoors, provide as much light as you would for Venus Fly Traps (See VFT's for my light-advice).  There are a few species that may not like the full light -- if leaves start to turn red and brown, try cutting down the light a little. I know from experience that a few will grow better with indirect light. 

Asexual Reproduction:

Stem Cuttings: When the plant has a healthy stem, cut of a piece with 1-3 nodes. Be sure not to cut back too much of the stem, or the entire plant will die. Cut about 1/2 of the leaf, Dust the cuts with fungicide, and the stem cutting with rooting hormone and fungicide (Rootone works well, it is both a rooting hormone and fungicide). Place the cutting is moist media for now, and place in high sunlight with average temperatures. I have put my cuttings of N. gracilis in a cup of water, and waiting until roots and new leaves appear before placing in media. I also put one cutting low light for 2 weeks to encourage faster root growth. I have used Superthrive with 1/2 of my cuttings, and I did see a difference-- those plants with Superthrive did grow faster and put out more roots. Unfortunately, I did not have a working camcorder, and hence, no pictures.   Once the cuttings have well rooted and start to put out new leaves, then transplant CAREFULLY into a larger pot.

Sexual Reproduction:

Nepenthes are dioecious (male and female flowers exist on different plants). If you have several plants, and a few are blooming, then you may be able to pollinate them. When I make a section on pollination, I will go a little further there.

camera.gif (1903 bytes) Picture available at the CP Database, do a search on Nepenthes & the species.

N. burbidgeae
Another climbing Nepenthes with leaves that can reach up to 15 inches, while traps can reach 6-8 inches long!
 
N. gymnamphora
Good for Terrariums. 
 
N. hamata camera.gif (1903 bytes)
This is one expensive plant! I never can find it under $100, but I really want this puppy. It is most likely the most dangerous looking Nepenthes there is, even moreso than the N. bicalcarata. One look from the CP database and you will see why.  Only a few growers have it, and it's never a good size plant. The peristome of the trap is not smooth and graceful like other Nepenthes, but has teeth curved inwards, and are supposedly sharp! I was told that it can grow into a 50 gallon terrarium up on it's side comfortably.  Andrew Wistuba said mature plants have leaves up to 4 inches and a slow grower.
N. khasiana                                     Picture available at Dangerous Plants!
Thanks to tissue culture, this plant is readily available from several growers. It grows unaffected when temperatures dip to the thirties, and can actually grow back if hit by a small freeze.  Pitchers can be up to eight inches long, with heavy red coloration at the top.  There is a bulge below the midpoint of the pitcher, moreso than other plants.   Hard to propagate from cuttings, so you may have to rely on seeds or tissue culture. I may get this one next year or so...
 
N. madagascariensis   
I think I have two of these... I learned the hard way that they can't take direct light. They like indirect or soft light.  I say I think I have two because I picked these up from Home Depot last year. One I placed in my low-light terrarium, and seems to be doing well, while the other I experimented with...it looks horrible!  I'm trying to verify if it truly is madagascariensis before I tell you more about it. 
 
N. sanguinea                                    Picture available at Dangerous Plants!
Fast growing Nepenthes vine, native to Malaysia.  Pitchers can be up to 12 inches, looks great in the Red Form.  The upper pitchers are more funnel-shapped, and are mainly green.  Noted to be good for a terrarium, but I see you need a large one! Have found it for sale at only a few places.
 
N.  tentaculata
Good for Terrariums. 
 
N. veitchii
Good for Terrariums.
 
N. ventricosa camera.gif (1903 bytes)(Not a great picture...) Better picture at Dangerous Plants!
Good for Terrariums, and I've found it for sale in several places on the internet. Native to the Philippines.  A low growing vine, with round pitchers with no wings.  Pitchers can be up to five inches, and have redish blotches.  Upper pitchers are smaller, and are yellowish.  Can tolerate low temperatures for brief periods of time.  

 

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