Terrariums
This is the first way I learned to grow my plants, and is the alternative way for many people who live is harsh environments. It's by far safer than throwing your plants outside. I have three terrariums right now, one 30 gallon (fish tank), and two 50 gallons (custom made). The lights are on a timer and give light 8:00 AM to 6:00pm.
The plants I expect
to get tall are in the bottom terrariums, while the low growers are on top. I
don't know why, but this picture came out darker than it really is. I
guess the bright light from the Halide Light drowns out everything else....
Upstairs I have the 30 gallon, with a double-light florescent fixture, 40
watts total. I have constant day temps around 80F, and nighttime 70F.
Humidity is averaging around 70%. My Cobra Lilies aren't allowed up here,
because I lost 5 there already. I do grow young Nepenthes, Sarracenias,
Utics, Cephalotus & Drosera there until I'm ready to
move them out, or move downstairs.
Downstairs are my custom built 50 gallons terrariums. One word of advice
- no matter how thick Plexiglas is, it will bend. If I could do it over, I would
get a 50 gallon glass, or custom built glass. They are basically large
versions of the top terrarium, but tipped on the side, and a glass cover velcros
on. The average temperature is 70-75F, and humidity is 60%. I have a 250 watt
Metal Halide light system from Diamond
Lighting. (You have to buy it from a retail outlet, like I did) I have
the LA3 compact, which provides growing light for 3 feet depth & width, and
average cost is $.24 a day (that'll add up). The upside is I can grow Sarracenias
down there, as well as Cobra Lilies when they get bigger. Here are 3
pictures of the setup without the Halide Light, With a Halide light, and
finally, what window tint film can do! Behond the power of Halide!
Right now, all I have down there is a quickly spreading Nepenthes gracilis, some mystery Nepenthes, young cobra lilies, and Sarracenia alata, flava, purpurea, and flava 'Red form'. It's empty now, because I have most of the plants outside for the summer, then bring them in. The few Sarracenias are getting used to being repotted, then going outside.
I don't feed my indoor plants any bugs, because I have a gap in all 3 tanks to allow airflow. All plants are grown in plastic pots, with media as described in my plant information section. I put 1" of red gravel in the bottom, just to make it look a little nicer in there. All water is captured from my AC release outside the office at work.
If you plan on growing plants like this, it helps to get a temperature and humidity gauge, and cover the sides and backside with a reflective material to keep more light inside. Radio Shack sells a Humidity & Temperature Gauge Combo for $20; it keeps a tab on the past 24 hours High & Low, which is great if you need to know the day and night temperatures. On the CP-newsgroup, I've read about pet stores now carrying Fogging machines, used for reptiles...it can also work in increasing the humidity, I purchased one from Pet Warehouse, but I'm not too impressed with it. A few days later, someone mentioned this site , which entails building a custom fogger, which I liked better, and I'm going to start on it once I plan on making a custom 100 gallon terrarium to replace the two I have now. The nice wire bookcase I use is from Sam's Wholesale club for $40, and works great.
Indoors is great for the winter...but during the summer, I like to grow what plants I can outside so bugs can finally become dinner.
Last updated 05/01/02
Since 2/22/2000